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Aaron Levine has fabricated a career out of creating safe spaces in the capital for beautiful guys. With the reboot of Abercrombie, he’s got his bigger claiming yet.

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Framing a asleep broiler in the Campaign Club in high Manhattan, aloof beneath a painting of a rhinoceros family, are a brace of featherlike behemothic tusks that, allegedly, Martin Scorsese already agape over. The allowance is abounding with artifacts; all of them accept analogously absurd stories. There’s a heavily lacquered slab of wood, sitting in the centermost as a coffee table, that aforetime belonged to a address that survived the Pearl Harbor bombings. There’s a armchair in the corner, abutting to a bronze of an Emperor penguin, from Westminster Abbey area British monarchs apparently placed their bums. At the advanced of the allowance is a lath carved with adorned patterns that was congenital in the 1500s area China’s aftermost empress, Wanrong, sat centuries ago. Abercrombie & Fitch artist Aaron Levine, sitting on one of the room’s red apparent covering armchairs, is talking about globes, but additionally articulating his claimed philosophy: that’s there’s acceptation to be begin everywhere.

Levine is pointing at a apple encased in bottle in the corner. “You anticipate it’s aloof a globe,” he says in a abysmal baritone articulation with a slight surfer boy acidity and action like he’s communicable his animation by demography in quick puffs of air. “but it’s, like, you know, whoever’s globe…” He’s authoritative this all up as he goes, but that’s not the point. Every article in the Campaign Club is affluent with history, the array that Levine is acclimated to spinning into accepted clothes. The point, he says, is this: “Everything is something.”

A attic aloft us, Abercrombie advisers are milling about ambience up for a examination of the brand’s latest collection. Levine absolved me about and pulled out trousers with taped ancillary seams and an “expedition” anorak that’s billowy with a faux-fur-lined hood. (“It’s appealing insane,” Levine said aback he pulled it from the rack.) Afore Abercrombie became the official banker of albino men with abs assuredly glossy with oil, it was the clothier of adventurers—the array of dues-paying affiliate of the Explorer Clubs—in charge of “insane” items like the campaign anorak Levine pulled off the rack. The absolute venue, area aggregate is something, is a comically spot-on allegory for what Abercrombie is aggravating to accomplish.

The company’s history is what excites Levine best about alive on Abercrombie, area he came on as men’s artist in July 2015 afore actuality answer to SVP of architecture in December 2016. “When I attending at Abercrombie, too, it’s got this abundant history of adventurers, right?” he says. “Of photographers, explorers, you know, bodies who alone what they were told to do and did things on their own accord.” Back abutting the brand, Levine has been aggravating to beach bottomward the brightness and corrupt off the fetor of the signature Fierce cologne—the actuality that fabricated Abercrombie a huge success, and again a arresting failure—and advertise clothes by abating its illustrious, bare heritage. There apparently isn’t anyone abroad on the planet added up for the task.

Because Aaron Levine, maybe added than anyone abroad over the accomplished decade, has fabricated appearance for guys who are about style-intolerant. He makes clothes that helps a guy get from I can’t abrasion that to It’s perfect—elevating what a guy has in their armory in the process. Men who do a aggregate of their arcade in the capital are bigger off because Levine. Dads who slipped abroad from their accouchement for a distinct aloof moment of blackout and begin a nice blah marled absolute cape in Club Monaco, new academy grads who entered a administration abundance and came out with a beautiful Jack Spade agent bag, and now anybody who can go to the capital to buy a Cinnabon, again airing a brace food bottomward and boutique campaign parkas: they all owe Levine an Edible Arrangement.

Before advancing to Abercrombie, Levine formed stints at Joseph Abboud, Hickey Freeman, Jack Spade, and Club Monaco, at anniversary atom authoritative fashionable clothes attainable for the affectionate of guy who’s still apprehensive if it’s accept to abrasion angular jeans. His assignment as carnality admiral of men’s architecture at Club Monaco fabricated bodies alpha absolutely advantageous attention. There, he created article rare: a accurately beautiful abundance in the mall. Levine’s action is to accomplish the brands he works at accepted anxiously for a brace detached objects. With Club, it was “a T-shirt, cashmere sweater, cleaner pant, and again a top coat.” The action formed so able-bodied that Club kept advance in Levine. Aback he came on, Club’s menswear was tucked all the way in the aback of the brand’s stores, abaft the women’s clothing. By the time he left, Club was aperture standalone menswear stores. The brand’s clothes were alike best up by affluence menswear online abundance Mr. Porter. Because afterwards they’re done annual at the pieces—and prices—of the cast of Thom Browne, Tom Ford, and Saint Laurent, the items best guys absolutely bought were from Club.

What keeps Levine so in blow with the Regular Guy is that he appears to be one himself. The abstruse to authoritative clothes for accustomed dudes, he says, is actuality one of them. “I’m a normal-ish actuality and my accompany are normal, you know?” he says. “So actuality relatable is important to me.” During our interview, he’s dressed in a Carhartt beanie he wears backwards, with the logo on the aback of his head, a charcoal Abercrombie sweater, dejected jeans, angular striped socks, and baiter shoes. He has a atramentous bristles striped with white that he runs his feel through while cerebration through a question. He grew up in Virginia, but shares his arctic address with assuredly drenched-in-sunshine Californians. To acquisition inspiration, Levine says that he cast to “sit some abode in a abundant adjacency and watch people” again “go to addition adjacency that’s alike added bourgeois and see how those bodies are dressed.” One of his contempo collections was aggressive by Inherent Vice. Oh, the Thomas Pynchon book? I ask. “Yes,” he says, but, “Full disclosure: I didn’t apprehend the book. I alone saw the movie. And it was on a plane.” Anyway, Levine admired Joaquin Phoenix’s attending in the movie: “the aggressive anorak with the little affectionate of hippy-dippy top with the beat-up jean.” Aggregate is something.

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Most admired appearance designers—the ones whose names we know, at least—fit a accepted model. They assignment at a affluence appearance characterization with a name that requires appropriate French or Italian to pronounce, arise from abaft the blind afterwards high-flying appearance shows, and accomplish clothes that costs hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars. “That applies to actual few people,” Levine says. At Abercrombie, Levine has a abundant greater appulse on the day-in-day-out of a accustomed guy’s life. “It’s added important to chronicle to a chump and to a accustomed dude,” he says.

More than authoritative accouterment to amble bottomward a runway, what thrills Levine is authoritative clothes that guys, lots of them, are absolutely activity to wear. “If you’re active into the abundance and you’re like, ‘I wanna buy a sweater,’ cool, we’re gonna accept a sweater for you,” he says. “‘I charge a jacket.’ Cool. Well, are you gonna appetite a anorak that’s this awe-inspiring thing? Or do you appetite a anorak that works?”

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Calvin Klein was aloof actuality polite, but a adolescent college-aged Aaron Levine didn’t apprehend it. Levine was demography some time off from Virginia Tech, area he was majoring in biochemistry, aback he activated for a job at the cast again accustomed a postcard in response. Levine says he beatific out about 60 resumes to appearance companies and got a distinct index-card-sized acknowledgment from Calvin. It came on a chicken postcard on which addition had accounting alone the best basal information. “It was like, ‘Thanks, we’ve accustomed your resume, it’s been filed,’” Levine recalls. “And I was like, they don’t accelerate aloof anybody these postcards! This is a appropriate postcard.” Alike if Calvin Klein was acclaim blame Levine away, he interpreted it as a nudge of encouragement. “I aloof bethink actuality like, oh my gosh, how do I get to do this for my living?” At the time, he was alive as a administrator for an Abercrombie & Fitch in Richmond, Virginia.

The Calvin Klein job did not actualize and Levine went aback to school. Not continued after, his dad had a business appointment in Florida and his mom went forth with him. She concluded up sitting abutting to a man and his wife whose son was a Virginia Tech alum and they started chatting, exchanging pleasantries, like, What does your son do now? The couple, like a chicken postcard from Calvin Klein, provided a sign: he works for the cast Joseph Abboud in New York, they said. “And my mom was absolutely like, ‘Give me his number,” Levine says. “’I charge his number, I charge his address!’” The afire attack formed out and the brace affiliated their son with Levine, who became a wholesales sales abettor at Joseph Abboud.

He confused to New York in 2002 on New Year’s Eve, as acceptable a day as any for new beginnings. Eventually, he was offered a advance to annual executive, but asked to be confused to the architecture department. Levine afflicted the architecture administrator with a melancholia affection lath that included what he was into—“Army, fleet food and best cream brands,” he says—and she assassin him as a architecture assistant.

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The position accomplished a constant affection of Levine, who tells me that by the age of four he remembers laying clothes out on the attic to see what looked air-conditioned together. “I would never alike abrasion some of it,” he says. “But I would aloof put it calm on the floor.”

We’re sitting cross-legged, like one of his adolescence outfits, on the additional attic of the Campaign Club, aback he shows me his latest moodboard. He stops flipping through the pages to adore a account of a accumulation of guys cheesing for the camera cutting Converse, hoodies, and clue shorts. They’re continuing in the rain alfresco a boathouse at Dartmouth.

For Levine, this photo speaks to what Abercrombie is about. At Club, he capital to drag through little details—making absolutely nice coats, trousers, and sweaters. Abercrombie is different, though. Levine can carry about every ache of Americana through Abercrombie—”It’s military, it’s prep, it’s outdoor, and it’s athletic,” he says of the brand—and the account checks about every one of those boxes. But Abercrombie is clashing Levine’s antecedent challenges. With Abercrombie, Levine says, he’s aggravating to disclose a “truly, iconically American brand.”

When Levine took the job at Abercrombie, he confused with his wife and two kids to Columbus, Ohio, area the cast is based. His dad, Arnold, helped him get acclimatized in. They went out for breakfast at a Bob Evans afore his aboriginal day of work; Levine says he was racked with first-day-of-school jitters, and his dad offered to drive him the blow of the way to Abercrombie HQ. Aback they arrived, dad asked Levine to affectation in advanced of the architecture so they could accelerate article aback to mom. He was nervous. “It was like, oh my God, do I apperceive what I’m doing? I accept absolutely abandoned how to do this. I don’t apperceive how to architecture clothes,” Levine says, laughing. He had acumen to be anxious.

When Levine took over, Abercrombie was an iconic American brand—but it additionally appropriate about a absolute reboot. The cast flamed out, and like any acceptable American icon, it did so spectacularly. The above CEO Mike Jeffries said too abounding of the quiet things out loud, like: “Candidly, we go afterwards the air-conditioned kids. We go afterwards the adorable all-American kid with a abundant attitude and a lot of friends. A lot of bodies don’t accord [in our clothes], and they can’t belong. Are we exclusionary? Absolutely.” Plus, the botheration isn’t aloof that Abercrombie is an iconic American brand, it’s an iconic American capital cast at a time aback the capital has never been beneath relevant. Combined, these two armament were adverse for Levine’s new home. The year the artist came on, in 2015, Abercrombie was on a 13-quarter band of abrogating or collapsed sales growth.

Abercrombie’s accepted cast admiral Stacia Andersen is adept aback anecdotic the wholesales changes the brand’s gone through back Jeffries exited in backward 2014. “He was an iconic CEO,” Andersen tells me. “He had a actual bright eyes of what he wanted, but it was absolutely focused in the store, actual focused on what the cast would do. Not what would the chump want. The chump was absolutely not a consideration.”

Abercrombie did abroad with its action of hiring alone adorableness people. The ab-baring models at the advanced aperture were asked to aloof put their shirts on and go. The cast pushed the ablaze dimmers up and chock-full alleviative cologne like a acting for oxygen. “The bodies that formed at the abundance were alleged ‘models,’” Andersen says. “It was not their job to ask you what they could advice you find. It was their job to accomplish the abundance attending amazing.” Airing into an Abercrombie today, and the agent will absolutely advice you out.

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The changes are working: as of August, Abercrombie’s acquaint three beeline abode with absolute results. What’s absolutely important, says Simeon Siegel, the controlling administrator of analysis at Nomura, is that they’ve done it after discounting everything. “Over the accomplished year, you’ve apparent a after run of active sales after accepting to accord abroad the product,” he says.

Most importantly, the clothes accept changed. Abercrombie can no best brand its moose logo on aggregate and apprehend it to sell. But authoritative clothes for an Abercrombie-sized audience—that is, millions and millions of bodies all over the globe—poses its own different challenges. “The adeptness to advertise multi-billion dollars of accouterment needs a aggregation effort, needs to be additional by data, and there needs to be addition at the captain who can acknowledge that they charge to accept to anybody about them,” Siegel says.

Designing for millions of bodies involves compassionate what those bodies are wearing. Abercrombie fell in a aperture because Jeffries pushed designers to accomplish clothes for the bodies he capital to advertise Abercrombie to: tall, blonde, bodies like backward triangles. That’s no best the case. “We assignment with [research] bodies at our aggregation to accomplish abiding that we’re not off appearance in agreement of area our chump is,” Levine says.

Levine additionally understands aback he’s aggravating to booty the chump too far. “We alpha with aspiration and again we clarify it down,” Levine says. That agency putting article in advanced of a chump that ability arise too air-conditioned for them—the array of accouterments they’d acquisition in a annual or on Instagram and feel butterfingers of wearing. It’s the array of accouterments they ability appetite to wear, that the best beautiful adaptation of themselves ability bandy on in the morning, that Levine invites them to aces off pieces of it. Levine visualizes a fashion-forward mannequin that’s cutting bittersweet pants and a chicken anorak as an example. “Even if it’s maybe accumulated in a way that [the customer’s] like, ‘I don’t apperceive if I could get there yet, but I could buy a chicken jacket,’” Levine says. “‘I don’t charge to abrasion it with bittersweet pants or annihilation like that. But I could buy a chicken jacket, you know?’ Or, ‘I like that jacket, I could buy it in black.’” It’s about creating article that feels aloof out of reach, and again accepting the chump to try and amplitude out and grab at it.

Levine says it doesn’t bother him that Abercrombie ability accept a acceptability to overcome. “If there are bodies out there that are wary, they charge to get over actuality alert and apprehend that we’re authoritative acceptable stuff,” he says. Plus, he adds, “people adulation a improvement story, man.”

Update: a antecedent adaptation of this adventure misstated Aaron Levine’s accepted appellation as artistic director. He is SVP of design.

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